Every question I actually get

Not when the method matches the surface, and on those three surfaces the method is soft washing: low pressure with the right chemistry. High pressure is for concrete and pavers, applied with a surface cleaner for evenness. Any quote proposing to pressure wash a roof is a quote to damage your roof. Full method breakdown on the soft washing page.

Force versus chemistry. Pressure washing scrubs hard surfaces mechanically. Soft washing applies a cleaning solution at roughly garden-hose pressure so the algae and mildew die and rinse away. Soft-washed surfaces also stay clean longer, because the growth is killed rather than trimmed.

Cleaners matched to the surface, always. Water-only blasting is the signature of an inexperienced operator: it moves dirt around, and the growth returns fast because nothing killed it. This is one of the best vetting questions you can ask any company.

Not when handled properly. Landscaping gets pre-wet and rinsed so solution never dries on it, and pets stay off surfaces until the final rinse. Ask me about the pool sometime: customers notice it is cleaner after my deck jobs than before them.

Rough Florida rhythm: house exterior every year or two, concrete about the same, pool decks often yearly because of constant moisture. Shade, trees, and sprinklers all shorten the cycle. I give honest per-property answers, not subscription pitches.

Yes, since 2015, with a BBB A+ rating. Commercial and HOA clients can have a COI naming their entity before work starts.

Almost always moisture trapped under a sealer that cannot breathe: sealed damp, sealed cheap, or both. It does not wear off, and resealing over it makes it worse. The fix is chemical stripping and a correct redo. Full explanation: why pavers turn white.

Yes. Failed seals get chemically stripped to bare paver, the joints get washed out and re-sanded, and the surface gets resealed correctly after real drying time. It is a regular part of my work: paver sealer stripping.

Correctly done joints hold. The washout you have seen comes from wrong sand or new sand over contaminated old joints. My process: old sand pressure washed out, SEK ASTM-C144 sand in, stabilized by the seal. Rock solid joint stabilization is the point of the whole sequence.

SEK ASTM-C144 joint sand, pearl or tan. Never play sand, pool filter sand, or blasting sand. If another quote cannot name their sand, that answers that.

Trident Cyclone keeps your pavers looking like their natural dry color with a matte, grippier surface. Trident Cat 5 deepens the color like it looks when wet, and stabilizes joints as a two-part product. You see both options on your own pavers before choosing. Details on the paver sealing page.

Cheaper, yes. The risk arrives later: play sand that washes out, bargain sealer that hazes white, and on travertine, epoxy grout that can cost you the stone itself. A strip-and-redo behind a cheap job costs more than the right job would have. On travertine especially, use a specialist: travertine sealing.

Expect a freshen-up coat every two to four years depending on sun and traffic; my average is about three. I have gone back to a three-year-old job of my own and found the sand joints still intact, which is what correct materials buy you: the re-coat stays a re-coat instead of becoming a redo.

Finish decides it. Matte natural products keep grip and are my pool deck default; heavy gloss can get slick where water stands. It is a conversation before the job, never a surprise after.

Yes, that is table stakes for commercial work: early starts before storefronts open, sections sequenced so paths stay open, cones and wet-surface awareness throughout, and cure windows communicated in advance.

Yes, before work starts, to your management company or board. Any exterior vendor who hesitates on this question should worry you.

Every commercial job closes with a photo report: before, after, and anything I flagged on site. CAMs use them for boards; managers use them for owners; everyone uses them at budget time.